In my last post, I have been reflecting on how to share my life online. When I began volunteering in the fibery yarn world, I was told by a known working knitter that compensation is never stated in public. Yet not to share information of being compensated (the details of how do not need to be shared) is not only a “no no” in the marketing world, but also can bring monetary fines with government agencies.
For instance, there is the work I did (and occasionally do when needed) for Rowan Yarns as their Rav editor. I was fortunate to receive their patterns (and sometimes their yarns) so I could play with those products. On Ravelry I documented which provided yarns and patterns that I did use. Please note, I was and am not being compensated for talking about those yarns and patterns. I was only paid to enter their Ravelry info, and answer/forward questions from Rav members. The last time I checked, I am not an ambassador for Rowan and Schachenmayr. You can just consider me a fan of the two companies’ products. 🙂
On another note, I am constanting editing patterns and recipes to adjust for size and taste according to the person(s) involved. Thanks to the Pussy Hat Project, I was able to design and write a top-down hat pattern (soon to come!) that incorporates a more distinct pair of cat-like ears without any excess needlework (some knit separate ears then attach, others require additional sewing/seaming).
After requests on how I created these cat-ear hats, I realized a huge thought:
I could add these ears to any beanie hat pattern, as long as enough yarn was available.
Please note your choice in yarn weight and gauge could affect ear size. In my top-down hat pattern, the ears’ section measured 2.75 inches using aran-weight The Fibre Co. Arranmore yarn. In the bottom-up incorporated ears in ArtYarns Super Merino’s worsted weight, they measured 2.5 inches. I used about 15 to 20 grams in the ears section.
Knit your hat pattern to your desired size around your head. (I have used either 4 inches for no turn-up cuff, or 6 inches for a folded cuff.)
If your hat pattern does not have an even number of stitches, knit one round to subtract a stitch.
Divide your stitches into two halves by inserting a stitch marker at the beginning and another at the halfway mark.
Knit 1, Knit into the front and back of the next stitch, Knit to the last 2 stitches before the marker, Knit into the front and back of the next stitch, Knit 1, Slip marker. Repeat for second half of round.
Repeat above increase round six (6) more times.
You should have worked 7 rounds of increases to add 28 stitches. (My 80-stitch hat increased to 108 stitches.)
Knit 8, Slip slip knit, Knit to the last 10 stitches before the marker, Knit 2 together, Knit 8, Slip marker. Repeat for second half of round.
Repeat above decrease round eight (8) more times.
You should have worked 9 rounds of decreases to subtract 36 stitches. (My 80-stitch hat decreased to 72 stitches.)
Close the top of the hat by two ways:
Grafting/kitchener stitch the two halves
Turn the hat inside-out and work a 3-needle bind-off
Hoppy knitting! =:8